Siena

Rather that mention the Duomo, even thought it does have two Bernini sculptures and the most divine inlaid marble floor, I'd rather talk about an 800-year-old phenomenon, Il Palio...a horserace.

It's not just a horserace; there is some back-story. The city of Siena is divided into 17 districts, or contrade, (con-tra-day) and each has its own symbol. Tower, dragon, giraffe and turtle name but a few. Ceramic tiles mounted on the walls and light fixtures with the neighborhood emblem and colors announce the beginning of each neighborhood.

Each contrade has it's own chapel, flag, its own administrative rooms and its own personality. Contrade are more like giant neighborhoods that you are born into and remain forever rabidly loyal to.

At the foot of this bell tower lays a shell shaped campo sloping down and ringed with buildings.

Twice a year in the summer,  the surrounding streets will be filled with sand to make a racecourse. Excitement for this age- old race will build months before the event, much like Mardi Gras in New Orleans is always in the planning stages. Out of 17 contrade, only 10 will be represented in the race. This is done by lottery. The horses, mere mixed breeds, are also chosen by lottery and are ridden by Sicilian jockeys wearing the flag colors of their contrade.

A long pageant of those participating begins the proceedings with the prize for the event, a Palio, or large banner of the Virgin Mary marched through the square and raised over the scene. The center campo is filled with thousands of people standing and the balconies and windows above are full. Only simple marble pillars separate the spectators in the campo from the chaos of the racetrack.

The horses are taken into the chapel of their contrade for a blessing. It is said that should the horse leave a “gift” inside the chapel it is very good luck! 

The spirited Sicilian steeds then line up between two simple ropes, pushing and nudging each other to get a preferred position. When the rope drops, the race is on, but for only three laps.  Horses are decorated in elaborate headgear while jockeys use whips to goad them and distract and or startle the others. The winner is the first horse to cross the finish line—with or without its rider. The loser is the second-place horse. Jockeys are allowed to do virtually anything to their opponents and each contrade has a rival district so you can see some serious “horse play” in this event.

Pandemonium breaks out as the winner is crowned. The Palio banner is awarded to the screaming, crying, jubilant fans whose contrade emerges as victor.

But the celebration does not stop here. For two more months there will be daily banquets culminating is a final gala celebration attended by 3000 people.  The Sienese know how to party!  I'm not sure I can think of a corollary within any U.S. city. 

This tradition will never stop because it defines its residents to their core.  Hey, you are a giraffe, or you are not!  One might overhear people talking in a coffee bar, “I don't think a giraffe would vote for that. I'm not sure a turtle could be convinced of that!" 

I wonder what they think about intermarriage?