Cortona in Arezzo....
Sunday was no day of rest for us as we pile on the bus at 8 AM and head south for the province of Arezzo and our visit to the hill town of Cortona. We have intermittent rain and when we reach Cortona the uppermost areas of the mountaintop are wreathed in clouds. It is much higher than it seems at first glance. We spent fifteen minutes on the winding roads to reach the summit and the Basilica of Santa Margherita.
Bronze model of Cortona
She is the patron saint of Cortona, whose mummified remains are in a glass sarcophagus atop the altar. One out of three girls here is named Margaret. It is a beautiful church getting ready for Sunday Mass so we head down into the town proper and meet our tour guide for the day, Carol.
Carol is an American living in Cortona for the last sixteen years and she shepherds us to the Etruscan museum which is booby-trapped with all kinds of steep stairs and bumps in the floor. It is a comprehensive place with lovely exhibits but I just don't feel like talking about the Etruscans. Once we are filled with archaeological knowledge, Carol frees us to wander the streets.
It is now raining at a moderate pace. Hopefully it will not interfere with the crossbow competition scheduled for this afternoon.
The target is in the corner
Despite the rain we shop and admire the bars and antique shops. Rigmor finds her computer bag and some jewelry. Exiting this promontory was challenging given the slick pavement and distance we had to cover but everyone made it down safely.
Now we are back on the bus and speeding our way through this, the breadbasket of Italy. The hills are smaller now and the landscape is a patchwork of fields in various stages of growth. Tobacco is a big crop here. Our destination is the Relais Corte del Sole, a beautiful resort fashioned from an original farmhouse. The hills are steeper here with deep valleys, every inch of which is planted with something.
We are greeted by the owner, dapper in a blue blazer, who gives us a tour of a few of the beautifully appointed rooms. Cozy with fireplaces, four poster beds and plush sofas, the original tile floors sparkle. I think I see some Frette linen here. Our lunch is set up near the Orangerie, their glass walled octagon used for a bar. The views across the valley are beautiful.
Simona said we would be having a light lunch. This is another Simona-ism, along with yes, it is a very steep but short walk. Tray after tray of antipasto, crostini Toscana, various croquettes and other savories are passed, along with Prosecco, white and rosso wine.
I decided that young Gino must be the son because he has his father's eyebrows. Paolo is laughing right now at my genealogical detective work, but I am right. The little nipote are running around outside as yesterday was the last day of school.
We hardly need the main course after all that tasting, but it is one of my favorites, Ribolitta, the twice boiled soup of many vegetables. The grounds here are lovely, filled with flowers and the densest jasmine I have ever seen.
Sunday was no day of rest for us as we pile on the bus at 8 AM and head south for the province of Arezzo and our visit to the hill town of Cortona. We have intermittent rain and when we reach Cortona the uppermost areas of the mountaintop are wreathed in clouds. It is much higher than it seems at first glance. We spent fifteen minutes on the winding roads to reach the summit and the Basilica of Santa Margherita.
She is the patron saint of Cortona, whose mummified remains are in a glass sarcophagus atop the altar. One out of three girls here is named Margaret. It is a beautiful church getting ready for Sunday Mass so we head down into the town proper and meet our tour guide for the day, Carol.
Carol is an American living in Cortona for the last sixteen years and she shepherds us to the Etruscan museum which is booby-trapped with all kinds of steep stairs and bumps in the floor. It is a comprehensive place with lovely exhibits but I just don't feel like talking about the Etruscans. Once we are filled with archaeological knowledge, Carol frees us to wander the streets.
It is now raining at a moderate pace. Hopefully it will not interfere with the crossbow competition scheduled for this afternoon.
Despite the rain we shop and admire the bars and antique shops. Rigmor finds her computer bag and some jewelry. Exiting this promontory was challenging given the slick pavement and distance we had to cover but everyone made it down safely.
Now we are back on the bus and speeding our way through this, the breadbasket of Italy. The hills are smaller now and the landscape is a patchwork of fields in various stages of growth. Tobacco is a big crop here. Our destination is the Relais Corte del Sole, a beautiful resort fashioned from an original farmhouse. The hills are steeper here with deep valleys, every inch of which is planted with something.
We are greeted by the owner, dapper in a blue blazer, who gives us a tour of a few of the beautifully appointed rooms. Cozy with fireplaces, four poster beds and plush sofas, the original tile floors sparkle. I think I see some Frette linen here. Our lunch is set up near the Orangerie, their glass walled octagon used for a bar. The views across the valley are beautiful.
Simona said we would be having a light lunch. This is another Simona-ism, along with yes, it is a very steep but short walk. Tray after tray of antipasto, crostini Toscana, various croquettes and other savories are passed, along with Prosecco, white and rosso wine.
I decided that young Gino must be the son because he has his father's eyebrows. Paolo is laughing right now at my genealogical detective work, but I am right. The little nipote are running around outside as yesterday was the last day of school.
We hardly need the main course after all that tasting, but it is one of my favorites, Ribolitta, the twice boiled soup of many vegetables. The grounds here are lovely, filled with flowers and the densest jasmine I have ever seen.
Simona
Trust me, everyone was asleep on the bus ride home. A nap was certainly in order as we had a big evening planned, dinner at Hotel Baglioni. Located near Santa Maria Novella and behind San Lorenzo, she is a five story beauty filled with dark wood paneling and sumptuous carpets. We arrive in three Mercedes minivans, a score of Cinderellas. Rigmor and I decided to walk up the five flights as they had previously been having some problems with the elevator and we felt it would be just our luck to get stuck in such a tiny space with eight people.
It felt like more than ten but the trek was well worth it. The top floor houses a bar with many different levels. The panorama or Florence's roof tops dominated by the Duomo spreads out before you, all silhouetted by the dark clouds that have followed us all day. There is much picture taking and toasting.
Printed menus await us at our table inside and once seated Simona announces a surprise. We have some music tonight. Italian soprano Cosetta Gigli, whose uncle was apparently a tenor of some note, will be singing for us. Wearing a red velvet dress once belonging to Maria Callas, she has a very impressive voice to match her very impressive cleavage. The gentlemen are enchanted.
She will serenade us between every course, smoked salmon with pecorino flan, ravioli with sage and brown butter, a fillet of skate with red curry sauce and creme brûlée with star anise gelato. Each appearance will be in a different costume. Afterward she sells CD's.
Soon we are zipped back to the convent. The Cinderella's have returned.
It felt like more than ten but the trek was well worth it. The top floor houses a bar with many different levels. The panorama or Florence's roof tops dominated by the Duomo spreads out before you, all silhouetted by the dark clouds that have followed us all day. There is much picture taking and toasting.
Printed menus await us at our table inside and once seated Simona announces a surprise. We have some music tonight. Italian soprano Cosetta Gigli, whose uncle was apparently a tenor of some note, will be singing for us. Wearing a red velvet dress once belonging to Maria Callas, she has a very impressive voice to match her very impressive cleavage. The gentlemen are enchanted.
She will serenade us between every course, smoked salmon with pecorino flan, ravioli with sage and brown butter, a fillet of skate with red curry sauce and creme brûlée with star anise gelato. Each appearance will be in a different costume. Afterward she sells CD's.
Soon we are zipped back to the convent. The Cinderella's have returned.
Wonderful commentary. What an experience for you two! Enjoy reading every word. Great photos. Keep up the good work. Paolo
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