Onward to Bamberg.........
We have a dreary morning today with rain in fits and starts. We won't dock until afternoon so we have the morning at leisure. Guide Iris gives an interesting lecture about Nazi Art Theft. When we were in Nürnberg two years ago we toured a system of caves dug out in the city center beneath the castle walls where art was hidden during WWII.
For company we have a gaggle of very interested geese who are intently eyeing our progress. There is heavy cargo traffic on the river today.
We are still in Bavaria in the upper Franconia. Bamburg lies on the Regnitz River close to its confluence with the Main and is a UNESCO world heritage site. Originally settled by Slavic peoples the town was laid out according to medieval planning rules as a cross.
Bamberg extends over seven hills, each crowned by a beautiful church. Often called the "Franconian Rome", unless you are a stalwart Bamberger who might think of Rome as the "Italian Bamberg". After lunch we board our coaches and make the short drive into town. Per usual we park on the outskirts and disembark to meet our guides.
Today is a bit different. A biking tour was offered for those interested so a dozen or so travelers peel off to claim their bikes. Our group is introduced to guide Erich, who certainly looks the part with leather shorts and jacket, a red sweater and blue checked shirt, all topped with a wide brimmed leather hat.
Erich is a bit averse to having his picture taken for someone who makes every effort to stand out in his typical Bavarian clothing. During my first effort when we parked he actually opened his umbrella to block the photo. Not to worry...I managed to catch him in an unguarded moment.
Actually, he is a a very charming guide. We poke our way along the canal looking up at the walled city above, climb some stairs and cross the bridge into the old city. From the bridge we see what
Bamburgers call their Little Venice. The houses hug the water's edge, but they are protected from flooding as high water is diverted through the Main-Donau-Kanal.
Bamberg, like much of Bavaria, is a Catholic town and lady Mary, as Erich calls her, graces many buildings and homes in statue and painting. We are slowly making our way up to the Cathedral. Way back in 1002 Heinrich was elected King of Germany. He was a pious man, married to Kunigunde, but they were childless. When it was decided to establish a diocese in Bamberg, Heinrich and Kunigunde birthed this cathedral.
The architecture is interesting. The front spires are Romanesque and the back spires are Gothic. The French were critical of Heinrich's building style and took over the project, hence the graceful Gothic lines in the second half of the structure. Inside it is quite plain but with the warmth of a parish church. So much of the churches we have seen have been more showplaces.
As soon as we arrive, the bells begin tolling at 3PM, the hour of Christ's death....and they toll and toll.
So we decamp across the courtyard to the Rose Garden of the original palace. This a very pretty site with hundreds of blooming bushes and tightly pruned trees. The view of the roof tops over the old city is lovely. It is overcast today with a slight drizzle and periods of light rain so the view of the snowcapped peaks referred to as Little Switzerland is obscured.
The original palace itself, commanding the high ridge, has actually been converted into a senior citizens residence. One third of the structure still houses government offices. Imagine having this magnificent view and rose garden in your retirement backyard.
Erich was quick to dispel the story that Bamberg was built on seven hills. This is a thousand year old lie he says. We go back to the time of the Holy Roman Emperors. They were feeling their oats. After all they controlled all the secular empire, while the Popes controlled the religious empire. They were a bit jealous that Rome was built on seven hills when Bamberg had just six. So to achieve parity they just gave Cathedral hill two names, one for the front and one for the back....problem solved.
Erich drops us off at the Biergarten where we will sample the special beer of Bamberg. Unusual for its smokey taste it is served with a side of huge hot pretzels, mustard and a sample of their sausages. After this we have some free time so we window shop and crisscross some of the bridges. We notice a six pointed star hanging outside one building. In Bavaria, the six pointed star signifies the sun coming down on the hops and the water coming up to make the brew with the two triangles converging. So in this area it a symbol for a brewer.
It is after six when we arrive back at the ship, so we scurry around getting ready for dinner because we will have a visit from an Om-pah-pah band this evening. They arrive in all their finery and play some rousing selections. They come from different backgrounds, some work in wineries, one is a farmer and one is a professional musician with the Würzberg symphony. Traffic was very heavy on the river this afternoon causing us to reboard the ship in a little hamlet. These guys hopped onboard while we were in a lock and now they have to hop off in another lock.
It was a short concert.....but perhaps when it comes to Om-pah-pah that's not such a bad thing.
3
We have a dreary morning today with rain in fits and starts. We won't dock until afternoon so we have the morning at leisure. Guide Iris gives an interesting lecture about Nazi Art Theft. When we were in Nürnberg two years ago we toured a system of caves dug out in the city center beneath the castle walls where art was hidden during WWII.
For company we have a gaggle of very interested geese who are intently eyeing our progress. There is heavy cargo traffic on the river today.
We are still in Bavaria in the upper Franconia. Bamburg lies on the Regnitz River close to its confluence with the Main and is a UNESCO world heritage site. Originally settled by Slavic peoples the town was laid out according to medieval planning rules as a cross.
Bamberg extends over seven hills, each crowned by a beautiful church. Often called the "Franconian Rome", unless you are a stalwart Bamberger who might think of Rome as the "Italian Bamberg". After lunch we board our coaches and make the short drive into town. Per usual we park on the outskirts and disembark to meet our guides.
Today is a bit different. A biking tour was offered for those interested so a dozen or so travelers peel off to claim their bikes. Our group is introduced to guide Erich, who certainly looks the part with leather shorts and jacket, a red sweater and blue checked shirt, all topped with a wide brimmed leather hat.
Erich is a bit averse to having his picture taken for someone who makes every effort to stand out in his typical Bavarian clothing. During my first effort when we parked he actually opened his umbrella to block the photo. Not to worry...I managed to catch him in an unguarded moment.
Erich trying to blend in
Actually, he is a a very charming guide. We poke our way along the canal looking up at the walled city above, climb some stairs and cross the bridge into the old city. From the bridge we see what
Bamburgers call their Little Venice. The houses hug the water's edge, but they are protected from flooding as high water is diverted through the Main-Donau-Kanal.
The city is a busy place with 72,000 residents and 13,000 students. Tourism was low here until the awarding of the UNESCO designation and the fall of the Iron Curtain. Now there are six million visitors each year. The streets are cobblestones with the usual array of half-timbered houses and their colorful window boxes. In addition to the usual clothing and souvenir shops I found many good antique stores. Well, given my knowledge of European antiques, better I say shops with lovely things.
Bamberg, like much of Bavaria, is a Catholic town and lady Mary, as Erich calls her, graces many buildings and homes in statue and painting. We are slowly making our way up to the Cathedral. Way back in 1002 Heinrich was elected King of Germany. He was a pious man, married to Kunigunde, but they were childless. When it was decided to establish a diocese in Bamberg, Heinrich and Kunigunde birthed this cathedral.
The architecture is interesting. The front spires are Romanesque and the back spires are Gothic. The French were critical of Heinrich's building style and took over the project, hence the graceful Gothic lines in the second half of the structure. Inside it is quite plain but with the warmth of a parish church. So much of the churches we have seen have been more showplaces.
As soon as we arrive, the bells begin tolling at 3PM, the hour of Christ's death....and they toll and toll.
So we decamp across the courtyard to the Rose Garden of the original palace. This a very pretty site with hundreds of blooming bushes and tightly pruned trees. The view of the roof tops over the old city is lovely. It is overcast today with a slight drizzle and periods of light rain so the view of the snowcapped peaks referred to as Little Switzerland is obscured.
The original palace itself, commanding the high ridge, has actually been converted into a senior citizens residence. One third of the structure still houses government offices. Imagine having this magnificent view and rose garden in your retirement backyard.
Erich was quick to dispel the story that Bamberg was built on seven hills. This is a thousand year old lie he says. We go back to the time of the Holy Roman Emperors. They were feeling their oats. After all they controlled all the secular empire, while the Popes controlled the religious empire. They were a bit jealous that Rome was built on seven hills when Bamberg had just six. So to achieve parity they just gave Cathedral hill two names, one for the front and one for the back....problem solved.
Erich drops us off at the Biergarten where we will sample the special beer of Bamberg. Unusual for its smokey taste it is served with a side of huge hot pretzels, mustard and a sample of their sausages. After this we have some free time so we window shop and crisscross some of the bridges. We notice a six pointed star hanging outside one building. In Bavaria, the six pointed star signifies the sun coming down on the hops and the water coming up to make the brew with the two triangles converging. So in this area it a symbol for a brewer.
It is after six when we arrive back at the ship, so we scurry around getting ready for dinner because we will have a visit from an Om-pah-pah band this evening. They arrive in all their finery and play some rousing selections. They come from different backgrounds, some work in wineries, one is a farmer and one is a professional musician with the Würzberg symphony. Traffic was very heavy on the river this afternoon causing us to reboard the ship in a little hamlet. These guys hopped onboard while we were in a lock and now they have to hop off in another lock.
It was a short concert.....but perhaps when it comes to Om-pah-pah that's not such a bad thing.
3
Bring some of that dreary back to Texas!
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