Friday in Budapest........Pearl of the Danube
When we awaken this morning the ship is moving at great speed. There were some delays during the night and we are making up for lost time. Everyone is anxious to go topside and capture our arrival into this historic capital.
Budapest is home to 1.7 million inhabitants, swelling to 3.3 million if you include the metropolitan area. It is bisected by the wide Danube with Pest on the east bank and Buda and Óbuda on the west bank. These two sides unified in 1873 becoming this largest city in Hungary. Graceful and treed Margaret Island announces the entry into the city.
The Buda side has the steepest hills and is crowned with The Royal Palace, now home to the Hungarian National Gallery and the 15th century gothic Matthias Church. The Pest side is dominated by the massive Parliament Building. Hugging the waterfront, it is the subject, especially at twilight, of scores of postcards.
We glide under the Chain Bridge before making a u-turn to dock. High above is Budapest's own Statue of Liberty. Known as the bottle opener, the monument was erected by the Soviets so any freedoms associated with it were slight.
Hungary has long been an oppressed nation which likely bred in them the ability to be cagey. Part of the Axis powers in WWII and busy battling the Soviets, they engaged in armistice negotiations with the U.S. and the U.K. Hitler discovered this betrayal and, in March 1944, German forces occupied Hungary. Still double dealing, the Regent signed an armistice between Hungary and the USSR. But when his son was kidnapped by German commandos he was forced to revoke the armistice, was deposed and a new government was formed. Eventually the country fell to the invading Soviet armies.
Approximately 300,000 soldiers and 600,000 civilians died in the war including 450,000 Jews and 28,000 Roma sent to Auschwitz.
We meet our guide, Gyökö, who answers to Victor. There are forty-eight letters in the Hungarian alphabet and most of the street signs use about half of them, making map reading difficult. Today Victor will be taking us on a coach tour of both sides of the city. Tomorrow is a national holiday, the feast of patron saint, St. Istvan, and the usual heavy traffic is swollen with visiting revelers. Stalls are already being erected near the water's edge in anticipation of the celebration. Tomorrow night, the Danube will reflect a massive fireworks finale.
It is a beautiful gothic structure with its spires and flying buttresses. All this wedding cake beauty is frosted with a geometric mosaic of brightly glazed local tile. Used as a camp by both the Germans and Soviets, the church was the venue for the coronation of the last two Hungarian Habsburg kings, Franz Joseph and Charles IV.
The interior is a dizzying array of traditional Hungarian motifs and Turkish elements captured in fresco, intricate stained glass and gilding.
At the rear, and overlooking the river below, is the Fisherman's Bastion, a turreted terrace where fishmongers previously sold their wares. The view from this high perch is beautiful.
Now we are headed to the Pest side of the river. Victor is a knowledgeable guide and a fine fellow but our snail's pace must have him thinking he must fill every moment with commentary. After a while, I shut my notebook in frustration wishing I had those ear plugs British Airways gave me. I am not the only one. Some are fantasizing about how they might use a handgun if available.
The Pest side is less hilly with an historic building on every corner. The beautiful Hungarian State Opera House, St. Stephen's Basilica, The Gresham Palace and elegant Ritz Carlton and The Four Seasons all dot the landscape. The largest synagogue in Europe and the second largest in the world after New York is the Great Synagogue of Budapest. The Moorish influence is apparent in the two soaring towers.
We pass by the extensive zoo and one of the their famous thermal spas. Oh, what I would give to be dunked into a thermal bath right now!
A number of memorials are scattered throughout the landscape. The Shoes on the Danube, sixty pairs of iron shoes commemorating a riverside massacre, Hero's Square and the Budapest's Holocaust Memorial, where a weeping willow tree in a silver tone inscribes on each leaf a victim, all are found on the Pest side.
It is now long after twelve and the question of whether or not we want to go to the market is answered with a resounding NO!!!!
A good amount of beer was requested at lunch for fortification so after a rest all are eager to visit the Market Hall. It is reached via a pedestrian street lined with shops and cafes. The Market itself calls to mind a train depot with its high arching windows and vaulted ceiling.
One third of Hungary is covered with plains and agriculture is one of their major industries. There are countless aisles of vibrant fruits and vegetables, meat counters, bakeries and cheese stalls. Let's not forget the sausages and spices. We bought several varieties of paprika. As I write this I can't believe I didn't buy any fois gras!
The second story is home to a food court and all their local handicrafts. I couldn't resist the beaded headbands for my little girls.
In usual Krupp tradition, we have already packed so we have only to bathe and change before our farewell reception and dinner. Doug and Lynn and Hunter and Becky join us. We generally have a pick up table of six or eight. Several couples come and go in the rotation.
Tonight when we are one of the first groups to descend into the dining room, an assistant, whom we really haven't seen much of before, asks, Do you have a reservation? Well, no. The irony of this is not wasted on Doug who remarks that we have been traipsing in every night for two weeks without one and now on this last day it seems laughable to need one. A table for six is secured, though, and we proceed to have a convivial evening the theme of which became: Reservations.
You could have a baked potato with that ....but you will need to reserve one.
We'd love to have you come see us in Texas....provided you have a reservation. This celebration was certainly more low key than our usual evenings.
Perhaps we all have any eye on tomorrow's rigorous travel day?
So for all of you to whom I did not give a proper goodbye, I say thank you for traveling with us and adding to our wonderful experience.
Now back in Texas, it's time to get down to the business of roasting some Hatch green chili. Fall is definitely in the air!
.
When we awaken this morning the ship is moving at great speed. There were some delays during the night and we are making up for lost time. Everyone is anxious to go topside and capture our arrival into this historic capital.
Budapest is home to 1.7 million inhabitants, swelling to 3.3 million if you include the metropolitan area. It is bisected by the wide Danube with Pest on the east bank and Buda and Óbuda on the west bank. These two sides unified in 1873 becoming this largest city in Hungary. Graceful and treed Margaret Island announces the entry into the city.
The Royal Palace
Fisherman's Bastion and Matthias Church at the very top of the photo
The Parliament
The Buda side has the steepest hills and is crowned with The Royal Palace, now home to the Hungarian National Gallery and the 15th century gothic Matthias Church. The Pest side is dominated by the massive Parliament Building. Hugging the waterfront, it is the subject, especially at twilight, of scores of postcards.
We glide under the Chain Bridge before making a u-turn to dock. High above is Budapest's own Statue of Liberty. Known as the bottle opener, the monument was erected by the Soviets so any freedoms associated with it were slight.
Hungary has long been an oppressed nation which likely bred in them the ability to be cagey. Part of the Axis powers in WWII and busy battling the Soviets, they engaged in armistice negotiations with the U.S. and the U.K. Hitler discovered this betrayal and, in March 1944, German forces occupied Hungary. Still double dealing, the Regent signed an armistice between Hungary and the USSR. But when his son was kidnapped by German commandos he was forced to revoke the armistice, was deposed and a new government was formed. Eventually the country fell to the invading Soviet armies.
Approximately 300,000 soldiers and 600,000 civilians died in the war including 450,000 Jews and 28,000 Roma sent to Auschwitz.
We meet our guide, Gyökö, who answers to Victor. There are forty-eight letters in the Hungarian alphabet and most of the street signs use about half of them, making map reading difficult. Today Victor will be taking us on a coach tour of both sides of the city. Tomorrow is a national holiday, the feast of patron saint, St. Istvan, and the usual heavy traffic is swollen with visiting revelers. Stalls are already being erected near the water's edge in anticipation of the celebration. Tomorrow night, the Danube will reflect a massive fireworks finale.
Typical Hungarian motif of decoration
A Plagues Memorial common in Europe
First stop is the Castle Hill area, home to the Royal Palace.We hike through the quaint streets toward the Church of our Lady, known as Matthias Church and named not for a religious figure but for the military general who ousted the Turks.
The interior is a dizzying array of traditional Hungarian motifs and Turkish elements captured in fresco, intricate stained glass and gilding.
At the rear, and overlooking the river below, is the Fisherman's Bastion, a turreted terrace where fishmongers previously sold their wares. The view from this high perch is beautiful.
Statue of St. Stephen, King of Hungary
Now we are headed to the Pest side of the river. Victor is a knowledgeable guide and a fine fellow but our snail's pace must have him thinking he must fill every moment with commentary. After a while, I shut my notebook in frustration wishing I had those ear plugs British Airways gave me. I am not the only one. Some are fantasizing about how they might use a handgun if available.
The Pest side is less hilly with an historic building on every corner. The beautiful Hungarian State Opera House, St. Stephen's Basilica, The Gresham Palace and elegant Ritz Carlton and The Four Seasons all dot the landscape. The largest synagogue in Europe and the second largest in the world after New York is the Great Synagogue of Budapest. The Moorish influence is apparent in the two soaring towers.
The Great Synagogue
The Opera House
A number of memorials are scattered throughout the landscape. The Shoes on the Danube, sixty pairs of iron shoes commemorating a riverside massacre, Hero's Square and the Budapest's Holocaust Memorial, where a weeping willow tree in a silver tone inscribes on each leaf a victim, all are found on the Pest side.
Shoes on the Danube
Hero's Square
The Holocaust Memorial
A good amount of beer was requested at lunch for fortification so after a rest all are eager to visit the Market Hall. It is reached via a pedestrian street lined with shops and cafes. The Market itself calls to mind a train depot with its high arching windows and vaulted ceiling.
One third of Hungary is covered with plains and agriculture is one of their major industries. There are countless aisles of vibrant fruits and vegetables, meat counters, bakeries and cheese stalls. Let's not forget the sausages and spices. We bought several varieties of paprika. As I write this I can't believe I didn't buy any fois gras!
The second story is home to a food court and all their local handicrafts. I couldn't resist the beaded headbands for my little girls.
In usual Krupp tradition, we have already packed so we have only to bathe and change before our farewell reception and dinner. Doug and Lynn and Hunter and Becky join us. We generally have a pick up table of six or eight. Several couples come and go in the rotation.
Tonight when we are one of the first groups to descend into the dining room, an assistant, whom we really haven't seen much of before, asks, Do you have a reservation? Well, no. The irony of this is not wasted on Doug who remarks that we have been traipsing in every night for two weeks without one and now on this last day it seems laughable to need one. A table for six is secured, though, and we proceed to have a convivial evening the theme of which became: Reservations.
You could have a baked potato with that ....but you will need to reserve one.
We'd love to have you come see us in Texas....provided you have a reservation. This celebration was certainly more low key than our usual evenings.
Perhaps we all have any eye on tomorrow's rigorous travel day?
So for all of you to whom I did not give a proper goodbye, I say thank you for traveling with us and adding to our wonderful experience.
Now back in Texas, it's time to get down to the business of roasting some Hatch green chili. Fall is definitely in the air!
.
Susan, thank you so much for this wonderful travel log. It is immensely informing and entertaining. You have a great writing style and with the photos mixed in it was absolutely great!
ReplyDeleteJim: Thank you for your kind words. I am glad I did it. Just this morning I was wondering what we did in Würberg, so it's nice to have a record. I wish you and Kathy a wonderful trip. Please take some warm layers. We certainly needed them in the northern part and when up on deck when the ship was moving.
DeleteThank you Susan for your blog. It was wonderful to read and help me keep my days and places we visited come back from a brain fog which developed from all the activities that we had in 2 weeks.
ReplyDeleteThank you Susan for your blog. It was wonderful to read and help me keep my days and places we visited come back from a brain fog which developed from all the activities that we had in 2 weeks.
ReplyDelete