The Cliffs of Moher......


We are headed to County Clare and one of Ireland's most visited and photographed spots.  Here the Atlantic Ocean comes crashing into the shore with cliffs towering 702 feet above.  But it is not stark.











The ground is sueded with the greenest grass sculpted in a wavy organic pattern by the prevailing winds.  At such a height the surf still seems powerful.  Imagine how high the waves are at sea level.




The shoreline is serrated with smaller cliffs that almost appear like abandoned castles and dotted with caves and outcroppings that welcome the puffins in season.




There are north and south trails that while rocky are well maintained.  Our luck endures; the sun is poking out and there is no rain.  Oddly, there is no wind.  From the northern trail we can see across to the three Arran Islands, reachable by ferry from Galway.














The exhibit center and shopping area are set into the hill, Hobbit-like.  A multi-level space gives history and an interactive exhibit allows one to choose a background and then be photographed. This memento is emailed to you.

I appear somewhat lost!
We are told that today they expect seventy coaches!  We are here first and our viewing has been perfect.  As we step back on the bus, the drizzle starts.

The Arran fisherman sweater originated in the Arran Islands.  The wool was first corded, then an unmarried woman spun the wool into yarn, thus the term spinster.  The fishermen were the knitters given their experience with repairing nets.

Each family had their own particular cable pattern.  If a fisherman washed ashore, as long as the sweater was on he would be identified.  Then there would be a wake for three days during which mourners would drink, sing, fight, cry and start all over again.  Hence the term: wake the dead.

We pass Lahinch Golf Club on the way.  It looks rather stark; there are no trees.  But don't let that fool you, it's an extremely challenging course where Tiger Woods, in his prime, would warm up before any big U.K. matches.

We are headed north through the Burren, a 100 square mile area shaped by geological forces for hundreds of thousands of years.  The landscape is very lunar in nature seen here at the border of the photograph.  


The descent through the Corkscrew Hills brings us to sea level and the Galway Bay.












We pass lots of fishing boats including the hookers.  The hooker is a gaff-rigged,  blue and white sailing boat with a distinctive coppery sail of rectangles and triangles, originally used for peat transport.




We near civilization in the form of more traffic as we approach Galway, a city of 80,000 with the distinction of having the second highest real estate prices next to Dublin.  Known as the city of tribes, tribute is paid to the fourteen founding families with standards ringing the main square.

James Joyce's wife, Nora Barnacle hails from here.  They met, fell in love, and began living together which, of course, meant they were run out of town on a rail, taking refuge in Europe. This gave James plenty of time to finish his masterpiece Ulysses, which perhaps only fourteen people have read to the end.  It's tough sledding.

Galway is a lively town marred only by the heavy yearly rainfall totals.  Town center extends out from a green square with a sculpture depicting the sails of a hooker boat.


It's a Saturday and the streets are full of visitors and families enjoying the sunshine.  Pedestrian friendly streets lead down to the River Corrib which is roiling this morning.  Snaking around the river walk is the Saturday pop-up market.  Everything from fish, produce, food stalls and arts and crafts abound.  The creperie was doing a very good business.



Last stop for the day was the Connemarra Marble workshop and store.  A long time family business, the doors to were salvaged by the current proprietor's father from the original Abbey Theatre in Dublin after the property was destroyed by a fire in the 1950's.














Here we received an education on the varied tones of marble from the different quarries.  Little did I know that when I was in Harrisburg, PA this summer I should have toured the statehouse.  There is a significant Irish population in Pennsylvania and the pale green marble was used extensively in the decoration.

The attached gift store was full of jewelry and object d'art.  Across the street we poked our head into an antique shop.  The open fire in the fireplace smelled so inviting.  JFK visited this area during his presidency and vowed to return.  Sadly, this never happened.  Please note the painting of him with little John John on the right side.
















We enjoyed a wonderful dinner tonight at the restaurant Hamptons. I had yet to have lamb during this visit to Ireland.  Tonight was worth waiting for.

Tomorrow we are headed back to the Dublin area.








































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