Robben Island..our last day in Cape Town....

Paul is looking better today so we have a early, light breakfast and await the arrival of Dr. Tyga.  Today I am present for his visit and I admit I am impressed.  So glad Paul did not have belly pain as it is quite possible that an operating room table might pop out of the suitcase and he would begin cutting!

After his exam, he gave Paul the go ahead to tour, provided he stay hydrated, and put him on Augmentin.  I am carrying 1.5 L of water to refill his small bottle in my mini backpack.

Gary is also ready to rejoin our group for the trek through the waterfront area toward the ferry.  While the mall is nice, it is a mall.  The shops and restaurants that line our path are really much nicer.  So sorry I haven't had the time to devote to shopping and dining out.

We queue a bit and go through security.  Onboard the ferry we receive a safety briefing, the highpoint of which was to please throw up out of the windows if necessary. Certainly makes those window seats less attractive.

Located to the west, about six kilometers out in the bay, its name, Robben Island, means seal island. Since the end of the 17th century, the island has been used for the isolation of mainly political prisoners. 


It takes about 45 minutes to complete the crossing and we dock at an unusual pier shaped like a growth of concrete crystals.




The tours here are on specific Robben Island buses so it is a mad rush to for everyone to walk down the 150 yards to where the buses await.  It is important that we all are together. Once herded, off we go, shepherded by a very articulate guide.

In addition to a prison, the island also served as a leper colony and a quarantine site for animals.  We begin our drive with a stop near a green domed Mosque-like site dedicated to an imprisoned imman.  This has become a pilgrimage site for Muslims.




During WWII, the island was fortified with 9.2 and 6 inch guns installed as part of the defenses for Cape Town.  Much like a small town we view residences, a church and a leper cemetery.  




We stop below the lighthouse for some views across the water to the shore, Table Mountain reigning over all.




Back on the bus, a former prisoner, Lionel, speaks to us about his time in the cells. With dreadlocks to his waist, he balances the microphone on his round belly.  His love affair with food began as soon as he left Robben Island behind.




He recalls that to be a prisoner was to live a life of hard labor, to be beaten regularly, to have mail restricted, inadequate clothing and to endure malnutrition.

The menus for black or Cape Colored prisoners were different than for Indians, having less quantity and nutritional value.  I don't believe there were whites here.

Lionel was a political prisoner and they were segregated from the general population, forbidden to congregate.  But you can't put two political prisoners near each other without a debate starting.  The guards became so tired of busting up confabs in the limestone quarry, that they finally allowed these group discussions as long as they got to work when the supervisors came near.  Oh, those picks and shovels would fly when they needed to!

Lionel, though, expresses no rancor, only forgiveness.



















Now it is time to enter the actual cellblocks.  Our new guide has a heavy accent so even with concentrating I miss about 40% of what he is saying.  With the bunks pushed to the end we sit on benches ringing the area as we are shown posters of redacted letters, the meal plan and other artifacts.






Kennels for the guard dogs


















We view Nelson Mandela's cell where he served 18 of the 27 years spent behind bars before the fall of apartheid. To date, three former inmates of Robben Island have gone on to become President of South Africa, including the current, Jacob Zuma.




Everywhere we go in South Africa we are amazed at the apparent racial harmony.  I am sure some deep seated biases still remain, but on the surface, unity.  Certainly with scores of political parties, but unity none the less.  Perhaps if we were here longer things might look somewhat different.

Remember they did not even taste equality until the mid 1990's after a lifetime of the most brutal segregation.  I attribute much of this to national leader and icon, Nelson Mandela, who after 27 years in prison emerged to become its President and set about healing wounds.  







Historically, he led the South African team to face the white New Zealanders in the World Cup, all with smiles.


With no teleprompter, he addressed world leaders from the limestone quarry where he used to labornoting a pile of stones.

This stone montage was created by ex-political prisoners to honor Mandela's release from prison.  The individual stones symbolize the diversity in South Africa and the pile as a whole stood for how the people can come together and build a unified nation. Just like Mandela, simple yet profound.



Without quotas, reparations or affirmative action, this Nobel Laureate man of color used the power of his office, history and personality to heal his nation.  But, of course, he had no ego.

Can't say that about other such honorees.

Paul says it is a sad state of affairs when the land of apartheid tops America in racial harmony.

We are soon back in Cape Town.  Our afternoon is free but I can't bring myself to shop. We have an early wakeup call tomorrow for our transit to the game preserve so I spend some time laying out my clothes for the morning and packing up.  There is a little time for rest before we gather for our farewell dinner.

This hotel has been marvelous, a wonderful way to end a tour.  Elegantly appointed, immaculate with excellent service, I could easily spend more time here.


















Our travel companions have been an interesting, thoughtful and fun group.  Twelve of us are going on and we will certainly miss those that will begin their long haul back to the states tomorrow.  That is especially true of Gary and Chris.



Dinner in a small conference hall, was lovely and we go around the table recounting our favorite moments.  We will all miss Tony, our most affable, knowledgable and well connected guide.  A gentle whip cracker, Tony even managed to stay even keel with our erratic counts for meal choices.  He will be missed, but affectionately remembered.

By the way, a quick visit to the I Store restored my computer to working with the click of a few buttons by the nicest young man, and all for free.  That was a good thing because in my haste to get there before 9PM, I somehow lost my room key and forgot to bring any form of payment....Just like the Queen of England!

Next...onward to the nature preserve!











.









Comments

  1. Glad to hear to hear both of you are better and the computer is fixed! Enjoyed today's tours.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog